Watching Calvin Klein debut their AW14 menswear line, not long after the beginning of the show it's cleric to see the main theme this year; loose, fitted in the waist, oversized jackets and both contrasting black and mule tones. Italo Zucchelli really did sculpt the worker silhouette, that which was then seen as birthed but the likes of Timberland, from a media perspective. Italo Zucchelli has been better known over the years, as the menswear creative director for Calvin Klein, and has recently been reviewed the CD has to be re-advised by Klein of the importance of sticking to the true vision of the brand. In an interview with David Bradshaw for GQstyle, the Italian designer recently commented with the following about his work for Klein: "I try to combine my ideas of what a modern Calvin Klein collection ‘could’ be with those defining what I feel a Calvin Klein collection ‘should’ be".
Taking that into account, we can most certainly see that the menswear sector of the brand doesn't always conform to the simple, eccentuating and nude designs of the CK womenswear. However wether Zucchelli stays true to the brands vision, one of which being "Chromatic restraint", well we can definitely see that clearly here, but we also see a very futuristic and also astronaut-like infusion. The metallic, shine trousers are paired well with block colour upper garment, this gives the outfit division, while of course conforming to the same colour palette. On the other hand, it is of course the upper half, which takes the upper hand... Oversized jackets and heavy jumpers do even out the bulk of the outfit. I'm glad to see that CK haven't fallen into the dreaded menswear pattern cliché of the previous year. I do however think th collection selection is wrong, of course black will always be a winner, but if you're trying to make a contrasting statement, then go for white. It's the obvious choice.
It Is of course a winner, and I think Italo should be commended on fusing his own ideas with the vision of the brand. Never the less, I think that he should concentrate more on a matching and appropriate colour scheme. Just so the models don't look too much like camels.
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