Let's help Homme save the ever conformate generation...

   

           

           

Eyes shimmered in Paris last month, as Kris Van Asshe sent an array of elegant, beautifully cut yet minimalistic and straightforward. Known for their premium quality, simplistic designs which can truly 'wow' the perfect silhouette. Saying that I haven't had much experience with Dior, either due to my depressing miserable and poor lifestyle and my unflattering physique. Needless to say anyone with money and a hot body can truly feel the emotional ensemble that embraces the collection.

“ I was very interested in the idea of ‘minimal baroque’ this season. I wanted an idea of rigour, yet without so many restrictions attached to it. I wanted a lot of contrast and choice - different propositions in colour and silhouettes, something more unconventional and individual at times,” said the designer in the show’s program notes."
On the mention of 'minimal baroque' I can surely say that it is minimal, that is if there is much mention at  all. The baroque essence seems to lay in the tailoring side. Slightly embossed baroque patterns give an ever so slight pop. On the other hand, the amazing metallic colours and futuristic material give an out of this world aura. A huge plus for the designer was creating a Mondrian themed line - like mélange of blocky patchworks that used sublet color variations or alternating fabric options.
The main theme seems to focus on a slightly oversized torso with a well tailored chest and shoulder, this boxy cut gives Van Asshe a canvas tonic blocks of fabrics. Pairing with shorts or the  pleat front short is designed not to distract from the upper body where all the sartorial action was taking place.  An effective and mature colour palette was chosen consisting of port, burgundy, black and plume and shades of blue which, along with the chosen silhouette keeps the collection grounded and sober.

A lot of garments feature a sprinkle of a pop art influence, this give another edge to the aesthetic, and would defiantly appeal to both a younger and slightly older demographic. We all need to remember when it comes to SS menswear, not only how hard it is for designers to keep on designing exceptional pieces, which push boundaries and bring in headlines, but also how difficult it may be, to design for a generation which is blighted by following a conformity. Basically most kids my age have turned into trend loving twats and only want to dress or act, like everybody else does.

The line does however give a lot of contrast and choice, indeed with different propositions, colours and silhouettes, however this will be restricting with the majority if the collection being block colour. All in all Dior Homme has remarked us all again, if my daily ritual consisted of scraping for change to buy my morning coffee, I would of course be straight to Sloane Street!

www.dior.com/dior-homme

Maison Martin Margiela - Just a one hit wonder?

Margiela has, in recent year, been know for his Avant Guarde collections which, although not as outlandish as say, Gareth Pugh, have still caught the attention of consumers and critics alike. A lot of people don't know, but Maison Martin Margiela as a brand, debut the first collection in 1989. This is a surprising factor for those of my age, as Margiela has only been known to us over the past decade or so. This is of Louise in comparison to long lying brands such as Chanel, Valentino, Oscar De La Renta and Dior. On the other hand, it's obviously a good factor to think the brand has been around a lot longer than its original inception. This gives us consumers the impression the haus has a bigger name for itself, than perhaps initially projected.

According to writers and those high up in the industry, Menswear was said to be pushing menswear fashion like never before, but truthfully I don't see it. Yes of course Margiela knows how to out a small spin onto a timeless or classic garment to make it look 'edged' or ironically 'fashionable' but all I see is the neutral reinvention of East London's hipster scene.

Having said that, from closer observation of the first, second and last image you can see something slightly unusual. This something seems to be an inverted waistcoat of even a severed tailcoat. A couple of these have creeped up in fashion before, but never in menswear (as I recall). Although giving off a horse riding facade, I definitely think this works. It gives a lot more animation to the piece and gives it the edge that guys like me are looking for in casual tailoring.

On a plus the styling is impeccable, and even though Margiela himself has resigned from the company, his high standards if styling, tailoring and colour palette are still in place. So all in all the collection is of course good, but remains as a bland, ever remaining mens collection with a few tweaks. Needless to say it is a Spring/Summer collection, and designers are continuously challenged with evolving their haus with such little to work with. Oh, and I must say. The way the belt has fallen on the first model... Gets me a little excited.

Gareth Pugh - Other worldly couture.

Gareth Pugh has stormed his way throughout the fashion scene in recent years. He's been known for his very artistic vision and Haute Couture style. Working with a predominant display of monochromatic sequences and careful blends if chiaroscuro, it's no wonder he's a favorite within the Art and Fashion community.

His latest collection has indeed left us all wondering what could come next. Moving from large scale, dark and futuristic explosions of fashion, Pugh has adopted a somehow more alien approach. As you can see the collection is indeed on a similar scale, but still cascade emotion and free spirit. I love everything about the direction the haus is going. I predict fashion this year will be consistently simple, with less being more.

In my opinion every part in the styling of this show has hit the nail on the head, it's all perfect. The collection really boasts a 60's look. Imagine a 60's housewife from a wealthy background, during the period of heavy extra terrestrial obsession. Channeling this gives a lot more for us to think about when looking and hopefully wearing these amazing pieces. These very simple yet edged and elegant pieces really do ooze what Gareth sets out to do, and that is make you fall in love with fashion all over again. Collection after collection.

From an analytical approach, a lot of straight hems, rigid materials and sequins give the main appeal factor. The collection looks strong, durable and divine. Just what I would look for in a man. A simple yet well choices colour pallets compliments the aim of the collection well. A lot more attention has been given to the top half opposed to the bottom half too, this is a more traditional way of showcasing new work, seeing as most of the attention is payed to eye level, therefore cutting out the need to compensate with bright or unnecessarily features jeans/skirts.

As I mentioned the collection dons an alien look, going from garments to the make up and choice in models. As much as I love the collection I don't think choosing actual aliens as models was a good idea. The campaign also seems to remind me of the SS12 Calvin Klein collection, in which pure white, straight cut dresses and garments were used, almost resembling lab coats. Never the less Pugh really does stand on top with the magnificent stretch if work. I can only hope he continues to impress and dazzle us all with him fabulosity.

Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer Womenswear campaign gallery.