Eyes shimmered in Paris last month, as Kris Van Asshe sent an array of elegant, beautifully cut yet minimalistic and straightforward. Known for their premium quality, simplistic designs which can truly 'wow' the perfect silhouette. Saying that I haven't had much experience with Dior, either due to my depressing miserable and poor lifestyle and my unflattering physique. Needless to say anyone with money and a hot body can truly feel the emotional ensemble that embraces the collection.
“ I was very interested in the idea of ‘minimal baroque’ this season. I wanted an idea of rigour, yet without so many restrictions attached to it. I wanted a lot of contrast and choice - different propositions in colour and silhouettes, something more unconventional and individual at times,” said the designer in the show’s program notes."
On the mention of 'minimal baroque' I can surely say that it is minimal, that is if there is much mention at all. The baroque essence seems to lay in the tailoring side. Slightly embossed baroque patterns give an ever so slight pop. On the other hand, the amazing metallic colours and futuristic material give an out of this world aura. A huge plus for the designer was creating a Mondrian themed line - like mélange of blocky patchworks that used sublet color variations or alternating fabric options.
The main theme seems to focus on a slightly oversized torso with a well tailored chest and shoulder, this boxy cut gives Van Asshe a canvas tonic blocks of fabrics. Pairing with shorts or the pleat front short is designed not to distract from the upper body where all the sartorial action was taking place. An effective and mature colour palette was chosen consisting of port, burgundy, black and plume and shades of blue which, along with the chosen silhouette keeps the collection grounded and sober.
A lot of garments feature a sprinkle of a pop art influence, this give another edge to the aesthetic, and would defiantly appeal to both a younger and slightly older demographic. We all need to remember when it comes to SS menswear, not only how hard it is for designers to keep on designing exceptional pieces, which push boundaries and bring in headlines, but also how difficult it may be, to design for a generation which is blighted by following a conformity. Basically most kids my age have turned into trend loving twats and only want to dress or act, like everybody else does.
The line does however give a lot of contrast and choice, indeed with different propositions, colours and silhouettes, however this will be restricting with the majority if the collection being block colour. All in all Dior Homme has remarked us all again, if my daily ritual consisted of scraping for change to buy my morning coffee, I would of course be straight to Sloane Street!
