Let's help Homme save the ever conformate generation...

   

           

           

Eyes shimmered in Paris last month, as Kris Van Asshe sent an array of elegant, beautifully cut yet minimalistic and straightforward. Known for their premium quality, simplistic designs which can truly 'wow' the perfect silhouette. Saying that I haven't had much experience with Dior, either due to my depressing miserable and poor lifestyle and my unflattering physique. Needless to say anyone with money and a hot body can truly feel the emotional ensemble that embraces the collection.

“ I was very interested in the idea of ‘minimal baroque’ this season. I wanted an idea of rigour, yet without so many restrictions attached to it. I wanted a lot of contrast and choice - different propositions in colour and silhouettes, something more unconventional and individual at times,” said the designer in the show’s program notes."
On the mention of 'minimal baroque' I can surely say that it is minimal, that is if there is much mention at  all. The baroque essence seems to lay in the tailoring side. Slightly embossed baroque patterns give an ever so slight pop. On the other hand, the amazing metallic colours and futuristic material give an out of this world aura. A huge plus for the designer was creating a Mondrian themed line - like mélange of blocky patchworks that used sublet color variations or alternating fabric options.
The main theme seems to focus on a slightly oversized torso with a well tailored chest and shoulder, this boxy cut gives Van Asshe a canvas tonic blocks of fabrics. Pairing with shorts or the  pleat front short is designed not to distract from the upper body where all the sartorial action was taking place.  An effective and mature colour palette was chosen consisting of port, burgundy, black and plume and shades of blue which, along with the chosen silhouette keeps the collection grounded and sober.

A lot of garments feature a sprinkle of a pop art influence, this give another edge to the aesthetic, and would defiantly appeal to both a younger and slightly older demographic. We all need to remember when it comes to SS menswear, not only how hard it is for designers to keep on designing exceptional pieces, which push boundaries and bring in headlines, but also how difficult it may be, to design for a generation which is blighted by following a conformity. Basically most kids my age have turned into trend loving twats and only want to dress or act, like everybody else does.

The line does however give a lot of contrast and choice, indeed with different propositions, colours and silhouettes, however this will be restricting with the majority if the collection being block colour. All in all Dior Homme has remarked us all again, if my daily ritual consisted of scraping for change to buy my morning coffee, I would of course be straight to Sloane Street!

www.dior.com/dior-homme

Alice Auaa - Breaking boundaries...

 Always the centre of the underground, artistic, fashion scene. Alice Auaa once again comes back with a collection that is not only more daring and a little more scary than the last, but is of Louise theatrical, cutting edge and everything Haute Couture is supposed to be. In an almost Tim Burton-esque atmosphere, the outfits are like the show, anything but tame.

Not known at a level in the UK or USA as it is in Japan, and probably because of the market. In the West we a lot more in favour of the 'normal' and 'edgey' pieces, where in Japan the more extreme, the more fashionable. Not a lot is known about the brand, apart from being very well regarded within Harijuku fashion markets. Well I think they should break the UK, and quick!

The collection screams dark and eary scene, with element of torture and death, but at least this provokes some sort of story and empathy on the consumer. Everything has been made to wow, and it really does. My favorite piece is the metal orbital, I do however feel it would look better on the first outfit, with the model and long hair of the fourth image up.

The majority of the garments seem to take a dark spin on the Victorian era. A lot of oversized and draped rippled bust blouses are used, a lot of high collars and pouffes on the arm. This of course is a compliment to the gothic past of England.

In my eyes a great collection, but is the UK ready for the dark and dismal?

Photo credit: JapaneseSTREETS

Louis Vuitton - New recycling campaign?

I've personally never been a fan of Louis Vuitton, I understand the attraction. Beautifully hand crafted bags, made with only the finest print and Italian leather, with small signature and subtle entities that make the product worthy of the name. However, spending a year living in West London and seeing hundreds of bad (and good) fakes around the arm of anyone and everyone really made me feel nauseous at the sight of the print. This is exactly why I don't like it when labels slap their print all over a suit and call it 'new season' especially a print that looks as daunting to me as a crossword looks to an illiterate. 

Moving on from that disgusting jacket, the rest of the outfit, and the collection as a whole is pretty decent. Vuitton are not renounced for their tailoring, but they do hold some pretty good pieces, especially the subtle pinstripe suit you can see above. Especially this season, doubt breasted jackets are a big thing, and LV haven't cut that corner. On the slightly more casual side, I see a slight element of Superdry in the fourth image. Imagine Harrison Ford stumbling across a Superdry store while filming 'Indiana Jones'... Not a nice look. Especially being a Superdry employee myself, I can't safely say that once I leave work, I do not want to see anything relating to the brand until the next time I'm at work. 

I do on the other hand, really like the oversized, draping shirt, which seems to have taken some influence from Wedgewood pottery. I like it, however it does bring back a slight memory of Lady Gaga performing at the Brit awards in, I believe it was, 2009. Never the less it's a regular collection we can be seeing a lot of this year, as LV haven't really delved into the menswear sector much. Perhaps designers have an overdue gas bill after foreign markets making money off their back, or they want to expand their horizons? Who knows.