Monday 12 January 2015

Your ticket to LCM 2015: E. Tautz.

This week has seen the return of London's top fashion event, known to the world as LCM; London Collection Mens sees the likes of top couture and high street Giants rub shoulders in this awe inspiring spectacle, designed to encapsulate the world in the forthcoming trends of next season.

A favourite of mine at this show is most certainly: E. Tautz. With head designer Patrick Grant at the forefront of the collection we see the reinvention of the Saville a Row cut, expressing a combination of elegant shoulders and a suppressed waistline. From a visual aesthetic standpoint this seems well balance, well proportioned and not fussy when sporting military tradition.

The slightly odd presence of nostalgia in the collection is complimented in generous notation with the usage of models throughout the show. Most looking gaunt and ill with an essence malnutrition and prepubescence. Needless to say this is a choice which works a very sharp advantage, with the cuts complimenting those who haven't over indulged on chocolate over the month. With extra volumes of material on both the torso and thighs, this allows the tapering on the legs and cut of the shoulder to be eccentuated, leaving us not only with a model that looks although his mother has been a little optimistic on his growing potential at school, but what seems to be a new wavelength of trend emerging.

My favourite portion of the collection is the intricate balance between dark tones and ligh hues, with the prominence of the colour palette paying particular attention to the contrast between light and dark. A notion that is continuously recited, and quite often shamelessly, within the fashion industry. However this time, working to the advantage of the designer. Simple cutting a bold accents of colour pattern are at the forefront of the collection, making this overall a visually stunning, hot new look for AW15.

My mind wonders slightly with brands who like to 'experiment' with the daring and bold side of tailoring, quite often having refracting some Frankenstein-esque visualisation of what the designer had originally intended. Brands like Margiela, McQueen, Givenchy and Dsquared are still in need of some serious manufacturing and design skills when it comes to this area. My advice... Don't drop out of class just yet, a little knowledge goes s long way!









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