Look back at Michael Kors SS13

Kors stunned the audience this year, with a gorgeous collection of bold stripes, full body patterns and his version of a refined, 60's style. The first half of the collection was a definitive contrast between light and dark, with the half, almost in its entirety being full body, thick pinstripe. Whith home occasional set of dogtooth, this really did seem like a hat tip to the sixties. However it's not Kors usual style, which has always seemed to be aimed at a sexier, younger audience. This line seems to be aimed at more middle class business women. Never the less it works. A lot of pinstripe works around thick, block tones on the upper half, my favorite ps had to be the bundle of monochrome shift belted slightly at the waist, and of course cigarette jeans, cropped at the ankle. Something with will of course be very popular this year clawing a comeback from the 60's and 90's.

A great addition, however somewhat Versace-esque leather, studded dress also seems a perfect addition to the line for capturing a younger hearted audience. The finale of the collection sees tender maxi dresses with cut away panels, showing Kors usual, subtle yet effective sensuality of women. A good collection in its entirety, but not a lot in the way of Summer, I would imagine it to be aimed for at Spring, potentially early Autumn. 

Image Credit: TheStyleColumn/Getty Images

Best and worst of the Grammys 2014

Last night we were all feeling the excitement and pressure that celebrities undergo when attending the biggest night of the year, in not only music, but one of the biggest in fashion too. Since it's inception 56 years ago, the Grammy Awards has always been the 'It Party' and only the best and most fashionable celebrities attend. Usually with tailor made gowns and couture but some of the worlds biggest fashion gods of our time.

Instead on focusing on the couture of the evening in general I've decided to focus on a selection of outfits which I think really stand out. Both for the better and for the worse. We always see the best stars of the decade, being new or old, in the best attire ready to 'wow' the crowd. However it isn't everyday you seen two of the biggest stars of the 80's and the past three decades stealing the show. 

To begin with, Cyndi Lauper shows all of us kids how it's done by rocking a gorgeous, just above knee length McQueen dress, perfectly matched with a cropped cape, also by McQueen. Perfectly matching those gorgeous heels is a hefty gold necklace, which drapes perfectly over and with the outfit, not only complimenting, but eccentuating her bold, signature hair colour.

Followed by of course, the Queen herself, Madonna. Madge is known to make a statement, still, at award shows and public appearances. However this look seems to be a dive into the past. Wearing a beautiful cropped and tailored Ralph Lauren suit and hat, obviously binged out with signature jewellery and...a cane? Perhaps it's not just her face that's looking old. Time for new knees Madge?

Last but my no means least on the best dressed list, is if course Beyoncé. Stealing headlines across the globe in this amazingly detailed and flattering Michael Costello gown, she (or her stylist(s)) certainly know how to keep her looking Bootylicious! The perfect lining of the dress to her curves make her look even more Devine than usual, not to mention the lace coverage, which leaves a little more to the imagination. Paired with her golden and wavy locks this certainly shows why she should have beaten Taylor Swift for that best dressed award, perhaps it was to console Taylor's rain of swift misfortune at the show?

Now for the worst dressed first we have Katy Perry. Now I know all of you Perry fans out here won't agree with me here, but I in no way think it's Katy in the dress that let's the outfit down, it's the dress itself. I don't think anyone could pull off a dress that looks like it's just come off the top if a Christmas tree. Either that of the leftover scribes of music notation left over by her worst dressed buddy, before her music career ended before it even started. Perhaps Valentino should stick to classic, evening gowns?

On that note... It's time to look at my second worst dressed. On the other hand it's not so much the dress, it's the dress on Paris Hilton. The Socialite stepped out onto the red carpet in a revealing, but covered up Haus of Milani number. Now while the dress is made up of Italian lace and potentially chiffon, the material does not drape on Ms Hilton as much as I would like to see. Not to mention the fact the colour of material, designed to give a split leg effect, doesn't match her skin tone....

All In all a great year for music and fashion, never the less I'm sure we can all agree, that the beautiful Macklemore stole the show for the guys, I'll leave you on this beautiful note...

Alice Auaa - Breaking boundaries...

 Always the centre of the underground, artistic, fashion scene. Alice Auaa once again comes back with a collection that is not only more daring and a little more scary than the last, but is of Louise theatrical, cutting edge and everything Haute Couture is supposed to be. In an almost Tim Burton-esque atmosphere, the outfits are like the show, anything but tame.

Not known at a level in the UK or USA as it is in Japan, and probably because of the market. In the West we a lot more in favour of the 'normal' and 'edgey' pieces, where in Japan the more extreme, the more fashionable. Not a lot is known about the brand, apart from being very well regarded within Harijuku fashion markets. Well I think they should break the UK, and quick!

The collection screams dark and eary scene, with element of torture and death, but at least this provokes some sort of story and empathy on the consumer. Everything has been made to wow, and it really does. My favorite piece is the metal orbital, I do however feel it would look better on the first outfit, with the model and long hair of the fourth image up.

The majority of the garments seem to take a dark spin on the Victorian era. A lot of oversized and draped rippled bust blouses are used, a lot of high collars and pouffes on the arm. This of course is a compliment to the gothic past of England.

In my eyes a great collection, but is the UK ready for the dark and dismal?

Photo credit: JapaneseSTREETS

We're blonde, we're skinny, we're rich and Donatella is the bitch of Paris Fashion Week.

Of course when I call someone a bitch, it's a form of personal flattery, but hey. I don't need to explain myself to you.

A certain tension starts to lift, as a somewhat relaxed yet upper class atmopshere unfolds. Waiting for the show to begin in true Versace fashion....perhaps flashing lights, elaborate sets or a dramatic performance. Almost instantly the lights dim and the introductory track of the night starts to play, and to my delight, it's 'Donatella' from Lady Gaga's new album - 'ARTPOP'. Not surprising since the release of the song, donned (pardon the pun) a relative like relationship between the two fashion revolutionaries. 

A small 20 second interlude welcomes the models onto the ornate set, which was somewhat in resemblance to a Ancient Greek Temple. Yes I wasn't there, but in my mind, I was. It's called imagination; to all of you basic bitches, questioning my ability. It quickly becomes clear that the main idea for the collection features a lot of signature Atelier points. A slightly more relaxed piece on top, with a beautiful, body flattering bottom half. 

The line quickly transcends from an ode to Grace Jones, to a night in Arabia. Beautiful, embroided gowns grace the runway, with fierce and sassy models giving it all the justice desired. Again, to my delight, fur is also brought back, and I do commend Donatella for that, given fur was set to be on the out. Dark colours, embroidery and a sweep of Angora fur fuses to create some of the most amazing outfits I have seen in a long time. Now watch out, another recurring theme is an open cut back with a midway Hollister, this gives a sexy look from behind while also having some animation there, so it's not just a plain, open back cut.

Halfway through the show, the colour palette suddenly changes from majorly black and white, with subtle palette colours, to a burst of what I could describe as: primrose yellow, bright orange and gorgeous shades of sapphire blues. The colours really do compliment the material of the dress, most likely silk. Next along is a slightly more modern feel, with a somewhat transcendent remix of Grace Jones and Lady Gaga, not far off either other in terms of fashion, but perhaps this is Donatella giving something back? Gold and silver shimmer now starts to walk, and for me this isn't what the brand is about. I'm not too sure wether they're modelling for Versace or Victoria's Secret. Of course that's not a comllimentary comparison.

Another let down would have to be the shoes. I know having a slide cap kitten heel, with an open strap reverse tends to be a signature, but it needs to be ditched. It's disgusting. No one wants to see the corns on the bottom of a models foot, I'm eating (salad) for god sake. Fortunately, the show was saved. An all black, sequined, hooded dress sweeps in taking second prize (behind that gorgeous chest cut fur coat with the diamond wide mesh hood). A gorgeous tailor of the silhouette while being slightly more relaxed on the upper half. A more relaxed silhouette is defiantly a recurring them this year, and I think for a good reason.

I know I shouldn't be talking about Versace, because of my pure lust for the label, but it's always nice to indulge once in a while. As a whole I would rate the collection a solid 9/10. The only let down of course being the shoes, and a few of the evening gowns towards the end of the show, never the less another amazing job well done Donatella, you're always my bitch.

To Baroque or not to Baroque

For some time I've been told my friends, family and those who try to act knowledgeable and invincible behind a keyboard, that Baroque resembles such things as their grandparents curtains. I o course, disagree completely. I did a little bit of research on the pattern style and this is what I came across, courtesy of the V&A museum in London:

"The Baroque style, popular in the 17th and 18th centuries, began in Italy and quickly spread to the rest of Europe. Characterised by luxury, drama and ornate detail, the style impacted upon all areas of art and design." - www.vam.ac.uk

So as I've not yet commented on anything that I wear I thought this would be the perfect starting point. Having the original design invented in Italy is a pinnacle choice for the Italian fashion giant -Versace. You can of course tell by the shirt, and of course by knowing me tht the shirt is of course Versace. However not be fooled into thinking that I love everything Donatella realises to the world, as this is not the case at all. Neither have I taken an almost immediate interest in the brand because of the placement given by Lady Gaga as so many people have.

For those of you with an artist eye, you can course see the key influence piece like this 18th century piece has on the design. It was of course, Gianni Versace who was the first to manufacture and design garments with such beautiful design and influence. 

So just a quick one, but I thought some of you may appreciate an item of clothing really worth sharing,opposed to the typical menswear you see every guy walking around in. Every year, the same shit.

Les Hommes becoming Moi Hommes

Being relatively new to the high end, menswear design sector, LES HOMMES seem to be in good grasp of what we all want to see in the new season. However they seem to have taken it a little further, and with a twist you wouldn't usually see.

The brand was founded not song long ago, by (at the time, university students) Tome Notte & Bart Vandebosch. The pair both ended up studying fashion at a high level, however Notte studied Economic Science before landing into fashion, opposed to Vandebosch, who had a ore-existing artistic background. The pair graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. 

Both designers are very charismatic, with matching personalities, and this can if course be reflected in their work. Now I can relate to this particular collection on a personal level. Myself, I wear a lot of dark shades, bearing strong chiaroscuro (which I partly think matches my soul, on a darker level) and this collection shows just that. Below I have sourced some of the mood that the label used to inspire the collection:

As I mentioned before, the main focus seems to have a deep bearing of chiaroscuro, with entirely monotonous pieces. This of course is a good thing. You see in the image there is a deep contrast between light and dark tones. This is eccentuated by the very sharp edges at which the tones separate and do not blend. Looking back at the collection, I'm sure you can now appreciate where my mind is...from an artistic point of view.

I love everything in this collection (minus the hat in a certain outfit that somewhat resembles a character from 'Kill Bill' or perhaps 'V For Vendetta') they all breathe such definition, power and integrity. I really do see this line as more of an art form that I do a series of clothing. 

From the start of the show, by the music and lighting you could almost instantly tell that this collection was to be bold and bear a statement, however you wouldn't expect it to be so dark. A prominent PowerPoint seems to be oversized jakcets, and accessories such as hats, and scarfs which almost seem to embellish the models and overcast their features. Everything about the line is mysterious and of course interesting, very high skilled tailoring is also a key factors, and this allows the stylist to be able to match something which drapes against such items that are fitted and sculpt the body.

Then, we have a look at their campaign for the URBAN sections of the brand. A section that seems to think it would be their likeliness of 'VERSUS for Versace' never the less, this stands at he complete opposite side of the spectrum. This line channels nothing but a sensual channeling of brands such as Hollister, Abercrombie & Fitch and all those disgusting pre-teen stores. SOME of the items aren't too bad, such as their tailoring and a small portion of their knitwear, however the campaign reeks of that fake, ripped body, benefit scraping, Cali/surfer boy attitude. 

I highly suggest boys, that you ditch the side label until you're more distinguished, and focus more on developing the dream work you have...

Let's blast off to a new dimension...

Watching Calvin Klein debut their AW14 menswear line, not long after the beginning of the show it's cleric to see the main theme this year; loose, fitted in the waist, oversized jackets and both contrasting black and mule tones. Italo Zucchelli really did sculpt the worker silhouette, that which was then seen as birthed but the likes of Timberland, from a media perspective. Italo Zucchelli has been better known over the years, as the menswear creative director for Calvin Klein, and has recently been reviewed the CD has to be re-advised by Klein of the importance of sticking to the true vision of the brand. In an interview with David Bradshaw for GQstyle, the Italian designer recently commented with the following about his work for Klein: "I try to combine my ideas of what a modern Calvin Klein collection ‘could’ be with those defining what I feel a Calvin Klein collection ‘should’ be".

Taking that into account, we can most certainly see that the menswear sector of the brand doesn't always conform to the simple, eccentuating and nude designs of the CK womenswear. However wether Zucchelli stays true to the brands vision, one of which being "Chromatic restraint", well we can definitely see that clearly here, but we also see a very futuristic and also astronaut-like infusion. The metallic, shine trousers are paired well with block colour upper garment, this gives the outfit division, while of course conforming to the same colour palette. On the other hand, it is of course the upper half, which takes the upper hand... Oversized jackets and heavy jumpers do even out the bulk of the outfit. I'm glad to see that CK haven't fallen into the dreaded menswear pattern cliché of the previous year. I do however think th collection selection is wrong, of course black will always be a winner, but if you're trying to make a contrasting statement, then go for white. It's the obvious choice.

It Is of course a winner, and I think Italo should be commended on fusing his own ideas with the vision of the brand. Never the less, I think that he should concentrate more on a matching and appropriate colour scheme. Just so the models don't look too much like camels.