Your ticket to LCM 2015: E. Tautz.

This week has seen the return of London's top fashion event, known to the world as LCM; London Collection Mens sees the likes of top couture and high street Giants rub shoulders in this awe inspiring spectacle, designed to encapsulate the world in the forthcoming trends of next season.

A favourite of mine at this show is most certainly: E. Tautz. With head designer Patrick Grant at the forefront of the collection we see the reinvention of the Saville a Row cut, expressing a combination of elegant shoulders and a suppressed waistline. From a visual aesthetic standpoint this seems well balance, well proportioned and not fussy when sporting military tradition.

The slightly odd presence of nostalgia in the collection is complimented in generous notation with the usage of models throughout the show. Most looking gaunt and ill with an essence malnutrition and prepubescence. Needless to say this is a choice which works a very sharp advantage, with the cuts complimenting those who haven't over indulged on chocolate over the month. With extra volumes of material on both the torso and thighs, this allows the tapering on the legs and cut of the shoulder to be eccentuated, leaving us not only with a model that looks although his mother has been a little optimistic on his growing potential at school, but what seems to be a new wavelength of trend emerging.

My favourite portion of the collection is the intricate balance between dark tones and ligh hues, with the prominence of the colour palette paying particular attention to the contrast between light and dark. A notion that is continuously recited, and quite often shamelessly, within the fashion industry. However this time, working to the advantage of the designer. Simple cutting a bold accents of colour pattern are at the forefront of the collection, making this overall a visually stunning, hot new look for AW15.

My mind wonders slightly with brands who like to 'experiment' with the daring and bold side of tailoring, quite often having refracting some Frankenstein-esque visualisation of what the designer had originally intended. Brands like Margiela, McQueen, Givenchy and Dsquared are still in need of some serious manufacturing and design skills when it comes to this area. My advice... Don't drop out of class just yet, a little knowledge goes s long way!

Living the life of a Russian dandy.

The world of fashion has been imprinted with the lasting effect of London Fashion week. Two weeks of runway shows, pre collection looks and long parties have left those in the industry, feeling slightly be-lingered. Most of those not in the industry seem to find it hard to distinguish between a solid AW14 outfit, and a pile of crap that just so happened to be clean for the day ahead - so here is a breakdown.

Maison Martin Margiela has been at the forefront of men's couture for decades, and although unbranded and anonymous... Season after season they're the dark horse in idealistic pret a porter. The theme behind the AW14 mainline collection was an ambiguous twist combining the dark side of coal mining in Eastern Europe and the aesthetic of a casual dandy.

The colour palette is representative of the newly introduced 'blue story' inclusive of midnight, bright blue, navy and petrol. Along with this story combines dark Browns and blacks which tie into the classic deconstruction look of the brand.

 

             

Another prominent look has been the combination of traditional  English herringbone tweed, mink and gunner jackets. All ready to wear pieces in the collection are designed to be combined with one another, in order the replicate a layered and deconstructed outfit, representative of the theme behind the collection.

All in all the collection seems bland, boring and overpriced for what you see on the rail, never the less, let us just forget that a true sense of fashion comes from the ability to formulate and style an outfit, not the critique an off the rail piece.

Goddess of love - the worlds new G.U.Y?

A worldwide rush of excitement is in the air, as earlier this morning Lady Gaga surprised us all when she released teasers of her new video for the latest single G.U.Y. I thought it would be interesting to try and predict what this video would me made up of. Take the concept... Aphrodite surrounded by her servants or lovers? I think not... Look a little more in depth and you will realise that Gaga is actually posing as Aphrodite (the goddess of love) surrounded by her offspring (Himeros and Eros). 

I found that the initial concept for the video has a slight connotation with this thesis by William Blake Richmond (1953) then again, this is a fashion blog and not a history blog.

Looking at some of the outfit Gaga presents in these teasers, we see two swimsuits... A black, PVC, panel cut swimsuit and also a metallic gold, ribbed, fibre flaked swimsuit... Both of which bear string resemblance to this old outfit, which I sure you don't remember...

That's right, she's bringing out the old guns again. Will this mean another hit, or will people sense that's she's desperate to make it back again with another outlandish yet stylish video? One thing for sure is that she will be taking influence from Donatella this time. Of course I love this woman, and Donatella just as much, but I'm sure your career outside Versace still exists.

Here are a few photos to refresh your memory when it comes to Versace and their sleek, panel tops and dresses, and again with the sketches Donatella thought up way back in the day, for all of those who think the Gaga-tella trend is brand new.

We're blonde, we're skinny, we're rich and Donatella is the bitch of Paris Fashion Week.

Of course when I call someone a bitch, it's a form of personal flattery, but hey. I don't need to explain myself to you.

A certain tension starts to lift, as a somewhat relaxed yet upper class atmopshere unfolds. Waiting for the show to begin in true Versace fashion....perhaps flashing lights, elaborate sets or a dramatic performance. Almost instantly the lights dim and the introductory track of the night starts to play, and to my delight, it's 'Donatella' from Lady Gaga's new album - 'ARTPOP'. Not surprising since the release of the song, donned (pardon the pun) a relative like relationship between the two fashion revolutionaries. 

A small 20 second interlude welcomes the models onto the ornate set, which was somewhat in resemblance to a Ancient Greek Temple. Yes I wasn't there, but in my mind, I was. It's called imagination; to all of you basic bitches, questioning my ability. It quickly becomes clear that the main idea for the collection features a lot of signature Atelier points. A slightly more relaxed piece on top, with a beautiful, body flattering bottom half. 

The line quickly transcends from an ode to Grace Jones, to a night in Arabia. Beautiful, embroided gowns grace the runway, with fierce and sassy models giving it all the justice desired. Again, to my delight, fur is also brought back, and I do commend Donatella for that, given fur was set to be on the out. Dark colours, embroidery and a sweep of Angora fur fuses to create some of the most amazing outfits I have seen in a long time. Now watch out, another recurring theme is an open cut back with a midway Hollister, this gives a sexy look from behind while also having some animation there, so it's not just a plain, open back cut.

Halfway through the show, the colour palette suddenly changes from majorly black and white, with subtle palette colours, to a burst of what I could describe as: primrose yellow, bright orange and gorgeous shades of sapphire blues. The colours really do compliment the material of the dress, most likely silk. Next along is a slightly more modern feel, with a somewhat transcendent remix of Grace Jones and Lady Gaga, not far off either other in terms of fashion, but perhaps this is Donatella giving something back? Gold and silver shimmer now starts to walk, and for me this isn't what the brand is about. I'm not too sure wether they're modelling for Versace or Victoria's Secret. Of course that's not a comllimentary comparison.

Another let down would have to be the shoes. I know having a slide cap kitten heel, with an open strap reverse tends to be a signature, but it needs to be ditched. It's disgusting. No one wants to see the corns on the bottom of a models foot, I'm eating (salad) for god sake. Fortunately, the show was saved. An all black, sequined, hooded dress sweeps in taking second prize (behind that gorgeous chest cut fur coat with the diamond wide mesh hood). A gorgeous tailor of the silhouette while being slightly more relaxed on the upper half. A more relaxed silhouette is defiantly a recurring them this year, and I think for a good reason.

I know I shouldn't be talking about Versace, because of my pure lust for the label, but it's always nice to indulge once in a while. As a whole I would rate the collection a solid 9/10. The only let down of course being the shoes, and a few of the evening gowns towards the end of the show, never the less another amazing job well done Donatella, you're always my bitch.

Let's blast off to a new dimension...

Watching Calvin Klein debut their AW14 menswear line, not long after the beginning of the show it's cleric to see the main theme this year; loose, fitted in the waist, oversized jackets and both contrasting black and mule tones. Italo Zucchelli really did sculpt the worker silhouette, that which was then seen as birthed but the likes of Timberland, from a media perspective. Italo Zucchelli has been better known over the years, as the menswear creative director for Calvin Klein, and has recently been reviewed the CD has to be re-advised by Klein of the importance of sticking to the true vision of the brand. In an interview with David Bradshaw for GQstyle, the Italian designer recently commented with the following about his work for Klein: "I try to combine my ideas of what a modern Calvin Klein collection ‘could’ be with those defining what I feel a Calvin Klein collection ‘should’ be".

Taking that into account, we can most certainly see that the menswear sector of the brand doesn't always conform to the simple, eccentuating and nude designs of the CK womenswear. However wether Zucchelli stays true to the brands vision, one of which being "Chromatic restraint", well we can definitely see that clearly here, but we also see a very futuristic and also astronaut-like infusion. The metallic, shine trousers are paired well with block colour upper garment, this gives the outfit division, while of course conforming to the same colour palette. On the other hand, it is of course the upper half, which takes the upper hand... Oversized jackets and heavy jumpers do even out the bulk of the outfit. I'm glad to see that CK haven't fallen into the dreaded menswear pattern cliché of the previous year. I do however think th collection selection is wrong, of course black will always be a winner, but if you're trying to make a contrasting statement, then go for white. It's the obvious choice.

It Is of course a winner, and I think Italo should be commended on fusing his own ideas with the vision of the brand. Never the less, I think that he should concentrate more on a matching and appropriate colour scheme. Just so the models don't look too much like camels.

Ports 1961 - A new era for mens fashion.

Ports 1961 also known as Ports, is a fashion house originally founded by Canadian entrepreneur Luke Tanabe in Toronto in 1961, specializing in luxury ready-to-wear and accessories for men and women. Since the inception of the brand, designers have endeavoured to ensure the haus live up to the prestigious name of the label. Ports has evolved from the modest business, known for importing clothes from Japan, to a renowned worldwide label.

This season shows that the brand certainly lives up to the description of 'specialising in luxury ready-to-wear and accessories for men and women' above you can see a small sample of what the haus showcased in Milan this month, for their AW14 line of clothing. Base notes of the clothing sees a very dark colour palette which really accentuates the ideology behind the designs.

Transforming from a brand that deal predominately with fine mens tailoring, the kind you would only find in London's Saville Row, to the exquisite, Avant Garde clothing you see here is truly a step forward in mens couture.  The sheer fit and outline of the clothing shows is business and formal side, while the exasperated explosions of creativity give a deeper sense of fun and exploration. These designs are those I would not expect to see in England but perhaps a suburban town in Paris or perhaps the underground Art scene of New York City, this is if course a bonus for those of you lucky enough to be blue to invest in such clothing.

This is a great collection from head to toe, the highlight for me being the deep contrast between tailoring in at mid points and eccentuating at focal areas. It's a shame Ports isn't British, never the less Canada should be proud.

  

Versace brings gun slinging Western back in fashion this AW.

Yesterday at 20:00CET Versace debuted their AW14 menswear collection. I am an avid fan of Versace, and if you know me well enough, you will know that Baroque designs are the key to my heart. So I was quite surprised, and a little disappointed to see very little of that style shirt in this collection. However the haus do hit back by taking us into a more western/cowboy themed line of clothing. The majority of which came halfway through the show with leather shirts and crotchless pants showcasing their new line of underwear.

Accompanying the leather ensemble is an Italian leather belt embellished with gold studs and Versace's signature motif, the head of Eros. A winning combination has to be the fluidity if matching T-shirt and underwear. This allows us to focus more on their design of Y-front and of course the accessories that go with it.

The winner for me this season would of course, have to be the beautiful, gold embellished suit. Although it's hard to make out here, the tailored suit consists of a silk plated collar and pocket square. Both if which bear the beautiful baroque design that Gianni has graced the world with since the inception if the brand. You also see this design slightly on the collar and of course the lapels of the jacket. 

Accessories have been a big deal for the haus this season, as a lot of low laying, heavy gold chains are at the centrepiece of the collection. Making a bold statement to this ready-to-wear line gold is a given when it comes to Donatella and her designs, and of course she would be stupid to ever ditch the gold on black contrast!

Of course another contrast has been added this year, and apologies for my lack of being able to print screen a photo, but as you can see a dark coffee brown has been added to the traditional gold on black power combination. I like it, a lot. I really do like the contrast yet depth the extra shade gives to the outfit, it seems a lot more warm and powerful to look at. Also remember that this collection is for the cold winter months to come, that we are pretty much still in height of.

Despite all of this, my favourite cameo would have to be the loud and colourful bedazzled deigns on a lot of the items, mainly a cactus. I recently recall suggesting Donatella whip out the old Bedazzler gun and get back on giving more gay to the collection. Perhaps she stumbled across my little baby of a blog and took some advice. If so, she went too far. A few studs here and there are good, but not when it looks like you're about to do a spin off to 'Toy Story' on a pair of leather pants. Never the less a great job has been done by my bitch Donatella and the collection is amazing in its entirety. This, is a true step forward and innovation in menswear design.

Versace - Falling back into the spotlight... Yet again

If those winter blues have left you thinking about summer a little more each morning, then I’ll have to be the bearer of bad news. In the fashion world, AW14 is walking off catwalks around the globe. One haus that has caught the attention of the world, fashion and fiscal alike, is Versace.

The fashion giant has commanded the attention of the fashion world since it’s inception in 1978 (The first boutique followed and opened the same year, in Milan’s Via Della Spiga). It was however, not until the mid 90′s that Gianni Versace saw his fashion haus reach celebrity status. In 1994 Elizabeth Hurley wore a split-side, black Versace gown. It was at the time, referred to as ‘that dress’ when she accompanied Hugh Grant, to the movie premiere of ‘Four Weddings and A Funeral’. The dress comprised of a simple, deep vee, black dress accompanied by the finest Italian design and tailoring. It did however catch the attention of the media and public alike. The dress was designed to be held together by oversized, gold pins (of course bearing Versace’s signature ‘Eros’ logo). The dress was also rumoured to be party responsible for launching Hurley onto the global media stage. Many saw the dress as ‘Overtly sexually charged and revealing’, and in response to this, she replied; “Unlike many other designers, Versace designs clothes to celebrate the female form rather than eliminate it”.

This season sees the relaunch of that classic Versace look. Indeed a celebration of the female form, Donatella crafts party wear with beautiful cuts and low drops, designed to embrace and flaunt the female form in all of its beauty. Of course there are pieces in the collection that bear Versace’s signature gold Eros, however you will see the majority of party wear in the book has actually moved away from extrovert embellishments. Although avant garde, a level of classic feminism remains.

One outfit that really struck me from this collection, is of course the jacket donned by Naomi Cambell. Having opened and closed the Pre Fall 2014 catwalk show, she seems to be Donatella's weapon of choice. Having a mix of what seemed to be suede and leather patching, the jacket is seamlessly crafted together with a barrage of gold staples, and decorative studs. Of course keeping vintage alive by embracing 80′s style, high rising shoulder pads and the adjacent drops in cleavage and the thigh. Perfectly finished with the signature Versace Eros pendant, of course re invented for the season.

Needless to say that I love this branch of the collection, I am, on the other hand, slightly disappointed in the lack of flamboyance. Versace has strived on re inventing new ways to shock. This however seems like a step backwards in that respect, and forwards in the haus 'Playing it safe'. Maybe I should send Ms Versace a bedazzler gun for Christmas? Or perhaps just remind her the importance of making statements with her garments, and not reviving the careers of retired models?